Muhammad Babur Mirza, The
founder of the Mughal dynasty, "The Tiger," who ruled
from 1483 to 1530. saw
his royal lineage as the key to future greatness. His mother was a
descendent of the greatest of the Mongol warriors, Ghengis Khan,
while his father carried the blood of the legendary Timur Shah,
who conquered and ruled the ancient city of Samarkand.
his base of operations in Kabul, Babur tried to commandeer Delhi
through sheer will of his pedigree. Over a century earlier, Timur
had raided Delhi and managed to place a new dynasty,
Sayyids, on the throne of the sultanate. Therefore, as a direct
descendent of Timur, Babur convinced himself that he could claim
the throne as his right. But the Turkish sultan of Delhi, Ibrahim
Lodi, refused to give in so easily, for his family had thrown the
Sayyids out of Delhi several generations back, and he would not
recognize Babur's claim. This left Babur with little choice but to
invade and hope his forces could defeat the well-entrenched
defenders of Delhi.
In 1526, Babur's
forces crushed Ibrahim Lodi's army, largely due to Babur's access
to artillery and gunpowder, both of which were in short supply on
Lodi's side. After completing the campaign against several
regional Hindu armies including a formidable force of Rajputs from
the west, Babur had the Delhi sultanate to himself, with no
serious challengers. he
expanded his kingdom by attacking Afghanistan and capturing Kabul
in 1504. Babur loved the city of Kabul where he set his base. From
there he crossed over the mountains into Hindustan and attacked
the Dehli Sultanate. With an army of only twelve thousand men, he
defeated the Sultan at Panipat, captured Agra and Dehli, and
established himself as Sultan. He then attacked a confederation of
Rajput states. He had conquered all of Hindustan and controlled an
empire that extended from the Deccan to Turkestan. According to Afghanland.com sources, He was the
first Islamic conqueror to employ muskets and artillery, and even
though these weapons were somewhat primitive, they were more than
a match for the armies of the Hindustan.
doing so, Babur laid the groundwork for his own dynasty of Mongol
warriors, known to the contemporary Dari world as Mughols. Babur, unfortunately,
never got the chance to take full advantage of his fledgling
empire. He died suddenly in 1530, leaving the throne to his son,
was succeeded by his son, Humayun, whose history walks the fine
line between tragedy and farce. He inherited one of the largest
empires in the world, and between 1530 and 1540, he managed to
lose all of it to rebellions, from Afghanistan to India. He went
into exile in Persia, and slowly put together an army to
re-conquer his lost territory. By 1555, he managed to reach his
goal and regain all the territories of his father. Babur
also left behind a handwritten memoir, penned in his native
language that recounted almost 40 years of his adventures, ideas
and opinions. This document, the Baburnama, is one of the earliest
known autobiographical works in the Islamic world, and is perhaps
the most detailed account of central Asian life of that period.
Taken from foot lose in the Jang
In Babur's footsteps
A group of adventurers follow the marks left behind by the great
emperor in the subcontinent
By Raheal Ahmed Siddiqui
am a true admirer of Babur's memoirs -- a beguiling narrative.
Hence I decided to follow his footsteps in the subcontinent. His
first incursion took place in January 1505. "Till that time I (Babur)
had never seen a hot country or the Hindustan border-land."
Crossing Khyber, his party dismounted at 'Jam-torrent' (Jamrud).
Babur had heard about 'Gur-Khattri' (Golkhetri in Peshawar) as a
holy place of Jogis and Hindus, but pressed for time he moved on
to Kohat and sacked it. Next, he turned southwest, marched towards
Thal (in Parachinar) taking the 'Hungu road for Bangash'. On the
way, 'the Afghan's of Kohat' attacked but were put to sword. Babur
writes: "The suppliants threw themselves on the ground and placing
grass in their mouth, cried out, 'I am your cow'." (This custom is
also mentioned by Charles Masson, the famous 19th century traveler
in his 'Narrative of Various Journeys in Balochistan, Afghanistan
and the Punjab,' while wandering through these areas in the reign
of Ranjt Singh.)
However, this act which could have saved their lives from sword of
an orthodox Hindu, had no effect on Babur, who casually writes,
"The prisoners were ordered to be beheaded and a pillar of their
heads was set up in our camps."
According to Erskine this barbaric act was typical to the Tartar
conquerors of Asia, and throughout Babur's memoirs we find
frequent mention of 'pillar of heads' as part of a victory ritual.
Yet none of his Mughal successors resorted to this custom, a clear
sign of Indianisation or rather dilution of the robust Tartar
From Hangu, Babur continued westward to Thal, a town on River
Khurram (Khurram Agency) from where he traveled south-east along
the river on a track called Gosfand-liyar (sheep road) as it was
not a frequent riding road. The valley of Bannu (the town was not
yet founded) was plundered and when Shadi Khan, the tribal
headman, surrendered to Babur with 'grass between his teeth', all
prisoners were pardoned. Further east, Isa Khail village, located
at the confluence of Khurram and Indus River (Mianwali District)
was sacked. He then turned south, wandered aimlessly on a
waterless plain (Laki Marwat and Tank Districts) where his
soldiers dug water holes in dry beds of water channels. Babar
notes, "It is a wonderful provision of God and where except for
the great river, there is no running water, water should be so
placed within reach in dry water courses."
Finally camped near the present town of Daraban in D I. Khan
district, Babur decided to return to Kabul. Two routes leading
back to Ghaznawi were proposed. According to Erskine, the first
route, 'Sang-i-Surakh' (tunnel rock) would have taken them through
Kaniguram, now a small town in South Waziristan. It is the centre
of Burkis, a small tribe that speaks Pashto and urmarh, an
Indo-Aryan dialect not spoken elsewhere. The second route would
have taken them along the bed of Gomal torrent. The final decision
was left to his companions. Unexpected heavy rains had left Gomal
swollen, making this route difficult. On March 7, 1505 Babur
notes: "Someone said that if we were to turn the (birds) bill of
the Mehtar Sulaiman range, we should get a level road, though it
might make a difference of a few marches. Before my ablutions were
finished, the whole army had taken the road and most of it was
across the Gumal. Not a man of us had ever seen the road; we
started off just on a rumored word! The prayer of the Eid was made
on the bank of Gumal."
We decided to follow Babur's footprints from this spot on. Early
morning, October 8, 2004, a small group of three adults and two
children left D I. Khan, drove south on the Indus Highway,
following tracks of an emperor who had never offered Eid prayers
twice at the same place in his life ever since he was 12 years
old. We wished to cover as much distance in a day in our
four-wheeler as Babur did on his horse -- on easy pace and leisure
in seven or eight marches. Our first destination was Bilah,
described by Babur as "a small township in the Sind-water and
dependent on Multan." No settlement of this name exists now, and
none could be found in the Atlas of the Mughal Empire, compiled by
Irfan Habib. Instead we stopped at Bokhara 'Pattan', a dying
fishing village some eight kilometers from the highway on the
banks of Indus where it leaves D I. Khan district and enters the
Punjab. Bokhara Pattan is not Bilah of Babur but a historical
aberration led this place to assume the name of a famous Central
This ferry point was an important crossing point on the Indus for
'Lohani Afghan' traders transporting merchandise on camels from
Afghanistan to the plains of Punjab. It lost its glory days when
Indus was bridged. In 1988 District Council, D G. Khan for Rs.12
lac per annum, auctioned Pattan but in 2002 it fetched Rs.1.2 lac
only. Instead of bridges, the headman blamed the extensive
irrigation canals which has "sucked out all the water of this
river", reducing it to a crawling worm for most part of year,
easily fordable by a tractor. In another few years, Bokhara Pattan
would join Bilah, disappearing from our memories and maps.
Driving towards D G. Khan, half asleep, I heard Ikramullah, the
young political assistant to tribal area, telling Dr. Noorullah
authoritatively that Bilah must be Leiah. The two names rhyme. But
Bilah was on the right bank of Indus hence this hasty assumption
does not coincide with the present location of Leiah (left bank),
unless the river changed its course over centuries, a probability
not recorded in history.
That night in Dera Ghazi Khan, when others made preparation for a
tough journey that lay ahead, I re-read Baburnama and pondered on
the murky historical record of the town. According to the
Gazetteer of D G. Khan district, revised by A H Diack in March
1898, "The town of Dera Ghazi Khan was founded by Haji Khan Mirani
and called after his son Ghazi Khan, who succeeded him and who
died in 1494, as the date on his tomb shows." This indicates that
the town of D G. Khan was founded much before 1494, a fact which
does not co-relate with the chronicles of Babur. During his
westward marches after leaving the banks of Indus, Babur while
bitterly complaining about lack of green fodder, writes: "Although
our men had constantly galloped off to raid, both before Sind-water
was reached and all along its bank...". The chances of these
raiding parties missing out a town in 1505 and Babur forgetting to
mention the sacking with 'a pillar of heads', is minimal. It
appears that the chronological facts given in this Gazetteer lean
heavily on heresy, and therefore the history of D G. Khan city
needs necessary revision.
Steps to dynasty
In the mid-winter of 1483 AD, when snow had closed the passes
leading out of Farghana Valley in Central Asia, the first baby-boy
was born in the house of Omer Sheikh. It was a moment to rejoice;
women hung carpets from the windows of the ramshackle castle of
Andijan. A soothsayer was called to predict good fortune for the
child. Younis Khan, the Mongol maternal grandfather, who came to
witness the shaving of the boy's head, could not pronounce the
child's given name. To him, the boy was a little tiger, hence
Babur (tiger in Turkish).
From the mother's side, the boy was a remote descendant of the
dreaded Genghis Khan, whose savage hordes had captured and
destroyed most of the known world. From the father's side he was a
direct descendant of Taimur Lane, the Turkish conqueror who made
Samarkand his citadel and enriched it with the spoils of his
The boy picked up the three languages spoken around him. He
mastered the old Turkish of the countryside, the Persian dialect
of the town and some Arabic of learned men.
Omer Sheikh died in 1494, while inspecting the pigeon-cote on the
cliff that collapsed and fell over the precipice. Immediately
anarchy broke out in Samarkand and Farghana Valley. Babur writes
in his autobiography Baburnama: "In the month of Ramzan of the
year 899 (June 1494 AD) and in the twelfth year of my age, I
became the Padshah in the country of Farghana."
Babur was more of a fugitive prince than an emperor for the first
22 years of his life. Twice he captured Samarkand, the fabled city
and a seat of Timurid throne, and twice he lost it. The second
time, in 1500, he barely escaped with his wife, mother and a few
companions. However, his worst enemy Shaibani Khan, the Uzbeg
warlord and a descendent of Batu of the Golden Horde, captured his
eldest sister Khanzada.
Haunted by Shaibani Khan and deceived by his own kinsmen, the
wandering tiger made a sudden decision in the summer of 1504 to
occupy Kabul. In a brief time, he extended his kingdom to Kumduz,
Ghazni, Balakh, Khandhar and Herat -- 'a city where sex, opium and
wine dictated the measure of man.'
After the defeat and death of Shaibani Khan in the Battle of Merv
(April 1510) at the hands of Shah Ismail Safwai of Iran, Babur
found a God-given chance to retake Samarkand. He entered the city
for the third time after an absence of nine years. But his triumph
lasted for only eight months, after which he was forced to
evacuate it and return to Kabul.
"From the year 910 (1504 AD) when I obtained the principality of
Kabul, I had never paused to think of the conquest of Hindustan,"
Babur notes in his memoirs Tuzuk-e-Babri.
But it is truly Annette S. Beveridge's translation of the memories
of Babur from original Turki Chughtai script to English that has
made it easy for us to understand the emperors true character --
he was a daring adventurer with a wandering spirit, a lover of
nature and beauty, a poet and a caring family man who was merciful
in victory yet barbaric in battle. The memoirs were translated in
Between 1505 and 1519, Babur made four incursions into India.
About his fifth and final expedition to Hindustan, the emperor
writes: "On Friday, 1st of Safar, the Sun brings out the Sign of
the Archer, we set out for Hindustan...". With a force of only
12,000 men, he left Kabul -- never to return to the city alive.
In Panipat, on April 21, 1524, the fate of India was decided. For
the first time in the subcontinent, the Indians experienced the
power of gunpowder and canon that destroyed Ibrahim Lodhi's
frontal charge of elephants. A swift Mongol maneuver at the flanks
completed the rout. Prince Humayun got the fabled diamond
Koh-i-Noor, which now adorns the diadem of the British Queen. The
battle of Kanwah (1525) followed and the foundations of the Mughal
dynasty were laid.
In late autumn 1506, Babur was in Herat, a city rebuilt after the
Timur war. Herat had experienced a century of uneasy peace and had
become the centre of Timuried renaissance of the 15th century. For
months Babur enjoyed the company of poets and musicians and
relished wine till the disturbing news of a revolt in Kabul -- by
his own relatives, including the half sister of his mother.
It was mid-winter and all the passes leading to Kabul were covered
in snow. The journey was terrible and the force was almost lost in
a snowdrift. They seemed likely to perish. Somewhere a small cave
was discovered, but Babur refused to take shelter in it. He quoted
a Persian proverb: to die with friends is nuptial. Babur writes:
"The whole horde outside in misery and pain, I inside the cave
sleeping at ease. That would be far from a man's act, quite
another matter than comradeship!" Out in the snow, he not only
braved the blizzard, but the poet inside him found time for
_expression: "In that stress, I composed the following opening
Is there one cruel turn of fortune's wheel unseen for me?
Is there a pang, a grief my wounded heart has missed?"
Next morning, a path to Kabul was discovered and the revolt was
crushed easily. About the treatment of his rebel kinsmen, Babur's
pen was modest. However, a more vivid description emerges from the
chronicle of Prince Hyder Mirza Dughlat. In his Tarikh-i-Rashdi,
written in flowery Persian, he notes: "The emperor (Babur),
showing his usual affection and without a trace of bitterness,
came into the presence of his step-grandmother cheerfully,
although she had withdrawn her affection from him and set her
grandson as kind his stead. Shah Begum was ashamed and did not
know what to say. Going down on his knees, the emperor embraced
her affectionately and said, 'What mercy of a mother falls upon
another? The mother's authority over all children is absolute in
every respect.' He added, 'I have not slept all night and have
made a long journey.' So saying, he put down his head on the
breast of Shah Begum and tried to sleep. He acted in this way to
reassure the Begum." Similarly other rebels, including Mirza Khan
and his mother (also Babur's mother's half sister) were also
It was still dark when we left D G. Khan for Sakhi Sarwar, a
rapidly growing town on the main highway to Balochistan.
Babur writes: "Having made three more marches close along the Sind,
we left it when we came opposite Pir Kanu's tomb. Going to the
tomb, we were dismounted. Some of our soldiers having injured
several of those in attendance on it, I had them cut to pieces. It
is a tomb on the skirts of one of the Mehtar Sulaiman mountains
and held in much honour in Hindustan." According to Henry George
Raverty, this Pir Kanu is the well-known saint Sakhi Sarwar.
The ink from Babur's pen flows further: "Marching on from Pir Kanu,
we dismounted in the Pawat Pass." Now from Sakhi Sarwar, there are
three passes leading to Dasht-i-Duki, the plains of Balochistan,
but none of them is known as Pawat.
A straight route leads to Rakhi Gorge. Driving past Fort Munro one
can descent in Rakhni, a town in Khetran that dominated the
Barkhan District of Balochistan. Travelers did not frequent this
route before 1863 because it could only be crossed on foot as the
steep vertical walls of the gorge made it impossible for horses to
scale these obstacles. Sir Robert Sundeman, who started his
illustrious carrier as a young political officer of D G. Khan,
realised the importance of this route -- as a mean to expand the
imperial boundaries beyond Sakhi Sarwar to Balochistan which was
then under the lordship of the Amir of Kabul. According to the
Gazetteer of D G. Khan district, this road was completed in 1887,
and was a fine piece of engineering work along the face of
The Kaha Pass, through which runs a perennial stream by the same
name, is about four hours on horseback. It is south of Sakhi
Sarwar and leads to Khetran and Bugti country. Kaha is a clear
running stream, which forms large pools at each meandering point
where mahaseer of good sizes can be fished. Since the local
Gurchani Balochs do not eat fish, a good catch is always ensured
throughout the year. Snubbed nose crocodiles were also encountered
in the Kaha streams at least till the Gazetter was written in
It is unlikely that Babur, who always took time out to record
details of flora and fauna of places he visited, has not mentioned
the crocodiles in his memoirs. After all, he did dismount in the 'Pawat
Another glaring omission in Baburnama is a reference to Harrand
Fort, an ancient citadel guarding the pass as the last frontier of
Greek Bactrian empire.
From Sakhi Sarwar, we headed north towards Sowrah Pass on the
Sanghar stream, which we believed was the proverbial 'Pawat' pass.
A few days before our journey, Ikramullah's BMP scouts had
reported a graveyard by the name of 'Pawa', some distance above
Sowrah Pass on the mountains. This news, coupled with availability
of water and green fodder along the Sanghar stream, further
strengthened our views on Babur's route.
Crossing the pass, we drove up stream for two kilometers along the
bed of Sanghar and came across remnants of an old settlement that
the locals believe was build by Arab traders before the Baloch
migrated to these mountains. Pieces of pottery lay scattered among
stones of varying sizes which were used as building material.
Beyond this site, the water of Sanghar stream disappears. Now this
stream, which swells into a roaring river during monsoons, flows
eastwards and joins Indus near the town of Taunsa. Along its
course, at a number of spots, the stream disappears from sight,
travelling underground in subterranean channels only to reappear
few kilometers downstream. Arab travellers knew this phenomenon as
Aab-i-Gum -- the disappearing water. The karez irrigation system
in Balochistan is a man-made version of this natural phenomenon.
Our westward backbreaking journey along the dry bed of Sanghar
ended at the BMP post Hingloon at 2.30 pm. Here, the water of
Sanghar had reappeared again and the valley was narrow but green.
The jeep able track ended here. We decided to take a much-needed
rest since the rest of the journey was to be completed on foot.
Half an hour later, with horses saddled and the sun shining
bright, I found a small contingent of BMP neatly dressed up in
khaki ready for the move. Ikramullah, the energetic PA of the
Tribal Area, had organized a route march of his force, which he
intends to lead from the front. In order to man a mountainous area
of 2500 square miles, the effectiveness of this force depends on
swift foot marches across the mountains. I marvelled at the
commitment of this spirited young DMG officer, who despite heavy
odds was still demonstrating the brilliance of an old institution
that has been discarded under the present devolution system as too
colonial and therefore redundant.
Ikramullah and his men marched in the front and the rest of us
followed in a single file along the pony trail between the steep
walls of the gorge. I was worried that the two youngsters, my
seven-year-old son Daniyal and twelve-year-old Hamza, both perched
on horses, may not last this endurance test. Dr. Noorullah who by
now was drenched in sweat complained why I had asked him to wear a
thick full sleeve shirt. While fording the stream for the third
time, Daniyal (or Danny) wanted to catch fish with his hands for
dinner. But his offer was decline.
Danny, whose face was masked with a sunburn cream, kept asking
about the wild animals. His answers could be found in Baburnama
which is more than a biography. It gives the earliest recorded
details of flora and fauna of this region, and is unfortunate that
we know Babur only as a great conqueror and not as a great
Evening shadows were lengthening when we crossed a huge boulder
embedded on a raised plinth in the centre of the trail. It had few
smooth cavities at the top, each filled with a stone. According to
a BMP Sowar, ailing persons traverse great distances just to place
a stone in the cavity, an act of devotion that may relieve them of
their sufferings. Not believing in supernatural healing powers of
a stone we moved on.
At dusk, a slight breeze picked up indicating that the night might
be cooler than anticipated. Now Noorullah could appreciate my
wisdom of advising him to put on a thick shirt. Danny, still
clinging to the saddles, was now enveloped in a jacket and baggy
trousers. The valley here was cup-shaped and more than a mile
wide. We crossed an abandoned well, a unique feature not
encountered in these mountains. The local Balochs had never
mastered the technique of digging up wells and this one was
abandoned even before their forefathers had settled in the area.
It is typical for them to refer things not recorded in their
memory to 'Arab traders', hence the same explanation was forwarded
this time too. Nonetheless it reaffirms the fact that this was an
important trade route frequented by caravans from Persia and
Afghanistan before the Baloch settled here. Their marauding habits
made the traveling unsafe, leading to its total abandonment.
An hour's journey from this well, the marching column of BMP came
to a sudden halt. The silence was broken by Dafedar Hassan Khosa
cursing loudly. Others joined in the chorus. In the dim moonlight
I saw Rehmat Khan flung his heavy sandal at a snake. More sandals
flew past him, followed by a volley of stones. I ran forward to
save the life of the poor creature but was late; but not late
enough to save if from further mutilation. Rehmat Khan wanted to
crush its head with a large stone.
I handed the dead snake to Danny and searched for my pocket torch
for a closer examination. I was warned of exposing my son to
danger. It was a foot-long male krait. Rehmat Khan's life was now
doomed as Danny decided to pocket the coiled carcass to show it to
his little sister back home. He pleaded: "Chota Sahab, I will not
live to see another sawan."
The reference to monsoon months is the extension of a popular myth
when the snakes are known to be more mindful of revenge. My
thoughts drifted back to Baburnama where Babur had also recorded a
strange encounter with a snake. It was August 14, 1519 when a
great snake was killed "...as thick, it may be, as the forearm and
as long as qulach (outstretched arms). From its inside came out a
slender snake, that seemed to have been just swallowed, every part
of it being whole; it may have been a little shorter than the
larger one. From inside this slender snake came out a little
mouse; it too was whole, broken nowhere."
Shortly after 8.00 pm, amid gunfire, we straggled into Burg, a
small village on the fringe of Punjab. It was a much-awaited 'home
The occasional howling of jackals disturbed me throughout the
night even though I was able to fall asleep almost instantly.
Morning restored our energies. The valley was much greener than my
last visit. Wild olives grew in abundance. Half a kilometer from
Burg, as the valley grew narrower, we stopped to see the water
supply scheme. Malik Fateh Buzdar and his clan have dug up a pond
close to the water pump which provide water throughout the year to
animals of all sorts. All neighboring tribes, even from
Balochistan, drive their cattle here for water freely but his clan
does not share the cost of running the machines with them. Moving
further west, the valley tapered into a defile. After crossing it
we found ourselves in a flat dry land.
We had left the mountains of 'Mether Suliman' behind in Punjab and
the vast plains of Dasht-i-Duki in Balochistan lay ahead. A little
distance from the defile, we examined an ancient mound where
pieces of pottery in various sizes lay scattered. Dafedar Ahmad
Imran Buzdar showed us a spot where a flat embedded stone, with
inscription in Arabic, marks the site as a mosque.
Another kilometer from this place, a large mound was visible which
was littered with broken pottery. Malik Fateh's brother, who lives
in a nearby hamlet, showed us a complete round necked earthen
pitcher dug up from this site by boys after last rains. Malik
Fateh also recollected that as a teenager in early 1960s, he along
with his friends once found a small dark cave high up in the
valley of Burg. They saw a clay pitcher and out of sheer greed for
treasure a daredevil entered the cave to discover that the pitcher
was empty. His village elders told him that it must have been left
behind by old Arab trader as a water reservoir for their return
Pottery is still alien to these Balochs. They instead use water
skins as containers or plastic cans as a more recent innovation.
Malik Fateh showed us a coin he found had at this site. It was
minted in Tabrez in the reign of the Persian Emperor Islam Shah
Safvi. The year engraved on it was 951 Hijri or 1540, barely 35
years after Babur had crossed the "Pawat Pass in the bill of
Mehter Suleman mountains".
After leaving the banks of Indus, during his westward journey,
Babur complained about the lack of green fodder which forced his
party to leave behind horses. Babur wrote: "After passing Chutiali,
a village in Duki, my own felt tent had to be left from want of
baggage-beast." Some more marches brought Babur within two miles
of Ab-i-istada (standing water), a shallow lake near Ghazni, where
he saw a red cloud in the horizon. He called it a wonderful thing
and wrote:"...not 10,000 or 20,000 in a flock but innumerable
which, when the mass of birds flapped their wings in flight,
sometimes shewed red feathers, sometimes, not." Babur's
description of these birds have left many divided in opinion
between flamingoes and China goose, which has white body and neck
and russet head and tail.
Babur's first trip to Hindustan lasted for five months. He reached
Kabul in May 1505.
Rejoined by our vehicles, we drove south to reach the main highway
which was to take us to Gumbaz, an insignificant town in district
Loralai earlier known as Chutiali. But the appalling road
condition stopped us from carrying on further westwards. We learnt
that the progress of work on the road was extremely slow and the
whole section right up to Loralai has been dug up since last year.
We turned back.
Later in the comfort of Sandeman's Lodge at Fort Munro, while
eating the sweet juicy melons, Babur's favourite fruit, Ikramullah
and I decided to follow his other four incursions into Hindustan,
especially in areas which form Pakistan. The journey would
definitely take us to Bajur where we will try to uncover the
romantic legend of Bibi Mubarika and Babur Padshah.